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News
repairfinder press release
Posted by Picardi on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 (19:01:17) (28 reads)
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Mold and Remediation Services
Posted by Picardi on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 (20:59:53) (26 reads)
Mold Remediation
Mold contamination, a common occurrence in water-damaged buildings, is a proven serious health risk; immediate removal is a key. If the home or building has had current or past water damage, particularly to building materials, a microbial investigation is warranted. This investigation should be performed by a company with microbiology or toxicology experience.
First a visual examination of the building and HVAC system will be conducted. The next step will be to perform surface and air samplings for analysis by an independent microbial laboratory. A remediation plan by S&V Company will be developed detailing method, scope, time and controls to be used.
In the case of an emergency, S&V Company will remove all wet materials from the site and provide the necessary air circulation to deter dampness before bacteria can multiply.
In cases where water damage has developed over a period of time, an analytical survey will be taken to determine the most effective remedial method, based on fungus type and location, as well as the extent of damages and exposure. We offer…
Proper containment and removal
Thorough site decontamination
If mold needs to be tested, we will refer you to a list of certified labs
Leaks in pipes, damp basements, condensation, roof leaks, and any standing water situation can create a mold condition. Mold can grow in a short period of time and is almost impossible for property owners to fully remove on their own with limited knowledge of proper procedures and consumer-available products. Left untreated, mold can cause health problems as well as property damage. Wherever mold exists, no matter how hard to reach, S&V Company takes immediate action
Mold remediation procedures include:
H.E.P.A. vacuuming
Biocide cleaning and or removal of interior surfaces
Disposal or decontamination of contaminated contents
Application of a mold/mildew resistant encapsulant
Air purification through ozone treatments
Clean up air using Air Scrubber/Negative Air Machine with 99.97% HEPA filter
Removed moisture using Refrigerant Dehumidifier CFM: 540
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Water Damage Restoration
Water can cause property damage and create mold growth if not handled properly. S&V Company 24-hour Emergency Services team responds quickly, extracting any standing water and getting our commercial-grade dehumidifiers and air scrubbers in place for rapid drying.
Our protocol includes:
Extracting all standing water
Drying the area with heavy duty commercial grade dehumidifiers and air scrubbers
Manipulating and blocking contents to help mitigate damage
Bagging unsalvageable contents for further evaluation
Applying an E.P.A. approved anti-microbial agent to help prevent mold growth
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Fire Damage Restoration
Fire not only destroys what it touches, it creates soot that adheres to walls, ceilings, floors and contents. In addition, smoke leaves behind difficult-to-remove stains and odors. The water or chemicals used to extinguish the fire create challenges as well. When a boiler or furnace creates a puff back, the residual soot can cause extensive damage throughout. The faster cleanup begins, the more salvage is possible. S&V Company responds immediately to mitigate damages. We begin the restoration process from the moment our team of professionals enters the premises and begins demolition and debris disposal.
This includes:
Demolition and removal of all charred and damaged building debris
Detailed soot sponge cleaning of all affected areas
Dry cleaning all upholstered items (On premise)
Dry cleaning of linens, apparel, etc. (Off Premise)
Restoration of carpets and rugs (On or off premises depending on the type of item and severity of damage)
Restoration of documents, fine artwork and electronics
Deodorization of all affected areas
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All about brakes
Posted by jfallon on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 (00:49:30) (42 reads)
A Short Course on
Brakes
by Charles Ofria
The modern automotive brake system has been refined for over 100 years and has become extremely dependable and efficient.
The typical brake system consists of disk brakes in front and either disk or drum brakes in the rear connected by a system of tubes and hoses that link the brake at each wheel to the master cylinder. Other systems that are connected with the brake system include the parking brakes, power brake booster and the anti-lock system.
When you step on the brake pedal, you are actually pushing against a plunger in the master cylinder which forces hydraulic oil (brake fluid) through a series of tubes and hoses to the braking unit at each wheel. Since hydraulic fluid (or any fluid for that matter) cannot be compressed, pushing fluid through a pipe is just like pushing a steel bar through a pipe. Unlike a steel bar, however, fluid can be directed through many twists and turns on its way to its destination, arriving with the exact same motion and pressure that it started with. It is very important that the fluid is pure liquid and that there are no air bubbles in it. Air can compress, which causes a sponginess to the pedal and severely reduced braking efficiency. If air is suspected, then the system must be bled to remove the air. There are "bleeder screws" at each wheel cylinder and caliper for this purpose.
On a disk brake, the fluid from the master cylinder is forced into a caliper where it presses against a piston. The piston, in-turn, squeezes two brake pads against the disk (rotor) which is attached to the wheel, forcing it to slow down or stop.
This process is similar to a bicycle brake where two rubber pads rub against the wheel rim creating friction.
With drum brakes, fluid is forced into the wheel cylinder which pushes the brake shoes out so that the friction linings are pressed against the drum which is attached to the wheel, causing the wheel to stop.
In either case, the friction surfaces of the pads on a disk brake system, or the shoes on a drum brake convert the forward motion of the vehicle into heat. Heat is what causes the friction surfaces (linings) of the pads and shoes to eventually wear out and require replacement.
Let's take a closer look at each of the components in a brake system and see where other problems can occur...
Master Cylinder
The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment on the firewall, directly in front of the driver's seat. A typical master cylinder is actually two completely separate master cylinders in one housing, each handling two wheels. This way if one side fails, you will still be able to stop the car. The brake warning light on the dash will light if either side fails, alerting you to the problem. Master cylinders have become very reliable and rarely malfunction; however, the most common problem that they experience is an internal leak. This will cause the brake pedal to slowly sink to the floor when your foot applies steady pressure. Letting go of the pedal and immediately stepping on it again brings the pedal back to normal height.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is a special oil that has specific properties. It is designed to withstand cold temperatures without thickening as well as very high temperatures without boiling. (If the brake fluid should boil, it will cause you to have a spongy pedal and the car will be hard to stop.) Brake fluid must meet standards that are set by the Department of Transportation (DOT). The current standard is DOT-3 which has a boiling point of 460º F. But check your owners manual to see what your vehicle manufacturer recommends.
The brake fluid reservoir is on top of the master cylinder. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear. This is a normal condition and no cause for concern. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.
NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Any other type of oil or other fluid will react with the brake fluid and very quickly destroy the rubber seals in the brake system causing brake failure.
Brake Lines
The brake fluid travels from the master cylinder to the wheels through a series of steel tubes and reinforced rubber hoses. Rubber hoses are only used in places that require flexibility, such as at the front wheels, which move up and down as well as steer. The rest of the system uses non-corrosive seamless steel tubing with special fittings at all attachment points. If a steel line requires a repair, the best procedure is to replace the complete line. If this is not practical, a line can be repaired using special splice fittings that are made for brake system repair. You must never use brass "compression" fittings or copper tubing to repair a brake system. They are dangerous and illegal.
Other Components in the Hydraulic System
Proportioning valve or Equalizer Valve
These valves are mounted between the master cylinder and the rear wheels. They are designed to adjust the pressure between the front and rear brakes depending on how hard you are stopping. The shorter you stop, the more of the vehicle's weight is transferred to the front wheels, in some cases, causing the rear to lift and the front to dive. These valves are designed to direct more pressure to the front and less pressure to the rear the harder you stop. This minimizes the chance of premature lockup at the rear wheels.
Pressure Differential Valve
This valve is usually mounted just below the master cylinder and is responsible for turning the brake warning light on when it detects a malfunction. It measures the pressure from the two sections of the master cylinder and compares them. Since it is mounted ahead of the proportioning or equalizer valve, the two pressures it detects should be equal. If it detects a difference, it means that there is probably a brake fluid leak somewhere in the system.
Combination Valve
The Combination valve is simply a proportioning valve and a pressure differential valve that is combined into one unit.
Electronic Brake Force Distribution
Newer cars use the antilock brake hardware and the onboard computer to replace these proportioning valve systems with a system called Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD) in order to distribute the exact amount of pressure at each wheel to insure a balanced brake system.
Disk Brakes
The disk brake is the best brake we have found so far. Disk brakes are used to stop everything from cars to locomotives and jumbo jets. Disk brakes wear longer, are less affected by water, are self adjusting, self cleaning, less prone to grabbing or pulling and stop better than any other system around. The main components of a disk brake are the Brake Pads, Rotor, Caliper and Caliper Support.
Brake Pads
There are two brake pads on each caliper. They are constructed of a metal "shoe" with the lining riveted or bonded to it. The pads are mounted in the caliper, one on each side of the rotor. Brake linings used to be made primarily of asbestos because of its heat absorbing properties and quiet operation; however, due to health risks, asbestos has been outlawed, so new materials are now being used. Brake pads wear out with use and must be replaced periodically. There are many types and qualities of pads available. The differences have to do with brake life (how long the new pads will last) and noise (how quiet they are when you step on the brake). Harder linings tend to last longer and stop better under heavy use but they may produce an irritating squeal when they are applied. Technicians that work on brakes usually have a favorite pad that gives a good compromise that their customers can live with.
Brake pads should be checked for wear periodically. If the lining wears down to the metal brake shoe, then you will have a "Metal-to-Metal" condition where the shoe rubs directly against the rotor causing severe damage and loss of braking efficiency. Some brake pads come with a "brake warning sensor" that will emit a squealing noise when the pads are worn to a point where they should be changed. This noise will usually be heard when your foot is off the brake and disappear when you step on the brake. If you hear this noise, have your brakes checked as soon as possible.
Rotor
The disk rotor is made of iron with highly machined surfaces where the brake pads contact it. Just as the brake pads wear out over time, the rotor also undergoes some wear, usually in the form of ridges and groves where the brake pad rubs against it. This wear pattern exactly matches the wear pattern of the pads as they seat themselves to the rotor. When the pads are replaced, the rotor must be machined smooth to allow the new pads to have an even contact surface to work with. Only a small amount of material can be machined off of a rotor before it becomes unusable and must be replaced. A minimum thickness measurement is stamped on every rotor and the technician doing the brake job will measure the rotor before and after machining it to make sure it doesn't go below the legal minimum. If a rotor is cut below the minimum, it will not be able to handle the high heat that brakes normally generate. This will cause the brakes to "fade," greatly reducing their effectiveness to a point where you may not be able to stop!
Caliper & Support
There are two main types of calipers: Floating calipers and fixed calipers. There are other configurations but these are the most popular. Calipers must be rebuilt or replaced if they show signs of leaking brake fluid.
Single Piston Floating Calipers are the most popular and also least costly to manufacture and service. A floating caliper "floats" or moves in a track in its support so that it can center itself over the rotor. As you apply brake pressure, the hydraulic fluid pushes in two directions. It forces the piston against the inner pad which in turn pushes against the rotor. It also pushes the caliper in the opposite direction against the outer pad, pressing it against the other side of the rotor. Floating calipers are also available on some vehicles with two pistons mounted on the same side. Two piston floating calipers are found on more expensive cars and can provide an improved braking "feel".
Four Piston Fixed Calipers are mounted rigidly to the support and are not allowed to move. Instead, there are two pistons on each side that press the pads against the rotor. Four piston calipers have a better feel and are more efficient, but are more expensive to produce and cost more to service. This type of caliper is usually found on more expensive luxury and high performance cars.
Drum Brakes
So if disk brakes are so great, how come we still have cars with drum brakes? The reason is cost. While all vehicles produced for many years have disk brakes on the front, drum brakes are cheaper to produce for the rear wheels. The main reason is the parking brake system. On drum brakes, adding a parking brake is the simple addition of a lever, while on disk brakes, we need a complete mechanism, in some cases, a complete mechanical drum brake assembly inside the disk brake rotor! Parking brakes must be a separate system that does not use hydraulics. It must be totally mechanical, but more on parking brakes later.
Drum brakes consist of a backing plate, brake shoes, brake drum, wheel cylinder, return springs and an automatic or self-adjusting system. When you apply the brakes, brake fluid is forced, under pressure, into the wheel cylinder which, in turn, pushes the brake shoes into contact with the machined surface on the inside of the drum. When the pressure is released, return springs pull the shoes back to their rest position. As the brake linings wear, the shoes must travel a greater distance to reach the drum. When the distance reaches a certain point, a self-adjusting mechanism automatically reacts by adjusting the rest position of the shoes so that they are closer to the drum.
Brake Shoes
Like the disk pads, brake shoes consist of a steel shoe with the friction material or lining riveted or bonded to it. Also like disk pads, the linings eventually wear out and must be replaced. If the linings are allowed to wear through to the bare metal shoe, they will cause severe damage to the brake drum.
Backing Plate
The backing plate is what holds everything together. It attaches to the axle and forms a solid surface for the wheel cylinder, brake shoes and assorted hardware. It rarely causes any problems.
Brake Drum
Brake drums are made of iron and have a machined surface on the inside where the shoes make contact. Just as with disk rotors, brake drums will show signs of wear as the brake linings seat themselves against the machined surface of the drum. When new shoes are installed, the brake drum should be machined smooth. Brake drums have a maximum diameter specification that is stamped on the outside of the drum. When a drum is machined, it must never exceed that measurement. If the surface cannot be machined within that limit, the drum must be replaced.
Wheel Cylinder
The wheel cylinder consists of a cylinder that has two pistons, one on each side. Each piston has a rubber seal and a shaft that connects the piston with a brake shoe. When brake pressure is applied, the pistons are forced out pushing the shoes into contact with the drum. Wheel cylinders must be rebuilt or replaced if they show signs of leaking.
Return Springs
Return springs pull the brake shoes back to their rest position after the pressure is released from the wheel cylinder. If the springs are weak and do not return the shoes all the way, it will cause premature lining wear because the linings will remain in contact with the drum. A good technician will examine the springs during a brake job and recommend their replacement if they show signs of fatigue. On certain vehicles, the technician may recommend replacing them even if they look good as inexpensive insurance.
Self Adjusting System
The parts of a self adjusting system should be clean and move freely to insure that the brakes maintain their adjustment over the life of the linings. If the self adjusters stop working, you will notice that you will have to step down further and further on the brake pedal before you feel the brakes begin to engage. Disk brakes are self adjusting by nature and do not require any type of mechanism. When a technician performs a brake job, aside from checking the return springs, he will also clean and lubricate the self adjusting parts where necessary.
Parking Brakes
The parking brake (a.k.a. emergency brake) system controls the rear brakes through a series of steel cables that are connected to either a hand lever or a foot pedal. The idea is that the system is fully mechanical and completely bypasses the hydraulic system so that the vehicle can be brought to a stop even if there is a total brake failure.
On drum brakes, the cable pulls on a lever mounted in the rear brake and is directly connected to the brake shoes. this has the effect of bypassing the wheel cylinder and controlling the brakes directly.
Disk brakes on the rear wheels add additional complication for parking brake systems. There are two main designs for adding a mechanical parking brake to rear disk brakes. The first type uses the existing rear wheel caliper and adds a lever attached to a mechanical corkscrew device inside the caliper piston. When the parking brake cable pulls on the lever, this corkscrew device pushes the piston against the pads, thereby bypassing the hydraulic system, to stop the vehicle. This type of system is primarily used with single piston floating calipers, if the caliper is of the four piston fixed type, then that type of system can't be used. The other system uses a complete mechanical drum brake unit mounted inside the rear rotor. The brake shoes on this system are connected to a lever that is pulled by the parking brake cable to activate the brakes. The brake "drum" is actually the inside part of the rear brake rotor.
On cars with automatic transmissions, the parking brake is rarely used. This can cause a couple of problems. The biggest problem is that the brake cables tend to get corroded and eventually seize up causing the parking brake to become inoperative. By using the parking brake from time to time, the cables stay clean and functional. Another problem comes from the fact that the self adjusting mechanism on certain brake systems uses the parking brake actuation to adjust the brakes. If the parking brake is never used, then the brakes never get adjusted.
Power Brake Booster
The power brake booster is mounted on the firewall directly behind the master cylinder and, along with the master cylinder, is directly connected with the brake pedal. Its purpose is to amplify the available foot pressure applied to the brake pedal so that the amount of foot pressure required to stop even the largest vehicle is minimal. Power for the booster comes from engine vacuum. The automobile engine produces vacuum as a by-product of normal operation and is freely available for use in powering accessories such as the power brake booster. Vacuum enters the booster through a check valve on the booster. The check valve is connected to the engine with a rubber hose and acts as a one-way valve that allows vacuum to enter the booster but does not let it escape. The booster is an empty shell that is divided into two chambers by a rubber diaphragm. There is a valve in the diaphragm that remains open while your foot is off the brake pedal so that vacuum is allowed to fill both chambers. When you step on the brake pedal, the valve in the diaphragm closes, separating the two chambers and another valve opens to allow air in the chamber on the brake pedal side. This is what provides the power assist. Power boosters are very reliable and cause few problems of their own, however, other things can contribute to a loss of power assist. In order to have power assist, the engine must be running. If the engine stalls or shuts off while you are driving, you will have a small reserve of power assist for two or three pedal applications but, after that, the brakes will be extremely hard to apply and you must put as much pressure as you can to bring the vehicle to a stop.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
The most efficient braking pressure takes place just before each wheel locks up. When you slam on the brakes in a panic stop and the wheels lock up, causing a screeching sound and leaving strips of rubber on the pavement, you do not stop the vehicle nearly as short as it is capable of stopping. Also, while the wheels are locked up, you loose all steering control so that, if you have an opportunity to steer around the obstacle, you will not be able to do so. Another problem occurs during an extended skid is that you will burn a patch of rubber off the tire which causes a "flat spot" on the tread that will produce an annoying thumping sound as you drive.
Anti-lock brake systems solve this lockup problem by rapidly pumping the brakes whenever the system detects a wheel that is locked up. In most cases, only the wheel that is locked will be pumped, while full braking pressure stays available to the other wheels. This effect allows you to stop in the shortest amount of time while maintaining full steering control even if one or more wheels are on ice. The system uses a computer to monitor the speed of each wheel. When it detects that one or more wheels have stopped or are turning much slower than the remaining wheels, the computer sends a signal to momentarily remove and reapply or pulse the pressure to the affected wheels to allow them to continue turning. This "pumping" of the brakes occurs at ten or more times a second, far faster then a human can pump the brakes manually. If you step on the brakes hard enough to engage the anti-lock system, you may feel a strong vibration in the brake pedal. This is a normal condition and indicates that the system is working, however, it can be disconcerting to some people who don't expect it. If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, read your owner's manual to find out more about it.
The system consists of an electronic control unit, a hydraulic actuator, and wheel speed sensors at each wheel. If the control unit detects a malfunction in the system, it will illuminate an ABS warning light on the dash to let you know that there is a problem. If there is a problem, the anti-lock system will not function but the brakes will otherwise function normally.
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How to use www.repairfinder.org
Posted by jfallon on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 (00:05:36) (47 reads)
Welcome to repairfinder.org!
We are your favorite online resource for San Diego based service companies. Whether you need home repairs, auto repairs, appliance repairs, landscaping, handymen, real estate services or more… we have a wide array of quality repair companies for you to choose from. Finding a quality repair company can turn into a real headache, so we have done the work for you.
repairfinder.org provides over 170 repair categories to choose from. Whatever repair you might need, you can find companies by searching in our database by typing in words like: automotive, oil change, remodeling, septic, handyman, cleaning services, carpet cleaning, plumbers, landscaping, contractors, appliances, plumbing, windows, kitchen remodeling, bathroom remodeling, concrete, chimney repair, glass repair, mirror repair, air ducts, home improvements, home inspection, heating & ac, movers, mortgage companies, roofing, child care, body work, decks & porches, fountains, mulch & topsoil, pool and spa, deck maintenance, lawn irrigation, rental cars, auto service, home security, security systems, framing, flooring, polishing, drywall, furniture repair, excavating, woodworking, builders, bathroom upgrades, kitchen upgrades, electrician, ceramic tiles, insulation, etc…You can also search thru our main categories page. Our main categories are: Auto, Home, Outdoor, Real estate/Financial, Other.
LA repair finder provides a feedback forum for our online community. You can read about repair companies from other customers, and read about their past experience. You can see notes from others like: “overcharged from original quote”, “late arrival”, “extremely helpful and cost effective” , “great service! “ Or a more detailed description of up to 250 characters. We encourage leaving a more descriptive report, so others can make an educated decision on who they choose for service. We also have a 5 star rating system as well. You would leave a 5 star if you were fulfilled with the service and you would recommend them to others. A 1 rating would have been a horrible experience and you would never use them again or recommend them to anyone. Between our rating system and feedback forum it will give you a clear view of who to use and who to avoid at all costs.
If 3 or more complaints are filed against a service provider, they are eliminated from our database indefinitely! This way, when searching for San Diego repair companies, you know you are finding only the best quality service. Our companies are The Top Company’s which have been highly recommended by firms such as the Better Business Bureau and others have been exclusively invited into our local network. We encourage you to email us with any questions or recommendations regarding our online services. We wish to make your online experience a positive one. Thank you for using repairfinder.org as your #1 resource for your everyday repair needs.
repairfinder.org behind the scenes
repairfinder.org consists of working professionals who have taken the time to provide a list of quality services companies in the San Diego area. We can all agree on how hard finding a quality home repair company can be. This is why we implement our 3 strike rule through our feedback forum. You can trust that we are here to supply only the best repair companies in San Diego.
Online Community FAQ
How do I use repairfinder.org?
To find a needed repair company type in a keyword into the search bar. Examples: Handyman, General Contractor, carpet cleaning, chimney repair, etc. repairfinder.org will search for all local services company in its database as well as rank them according to distance from your zip code, and star rating. You can also search thru our main categories page link directly underneath the search bar. This will have all categories in one place for easy viewing. Our main categories are: Auto, Home, Outdoor, Real estate/Financial, Other.
What does a star mean next to a business? What is a feedback forum?
Our star rating system is to show you which companies stand out from the rest in a positive or negative way. Companies with 5 stars are considered the best in the business. Companies with 1 star are considered the worst in the business and are not recommended for service. We encourage you to leave a star rating for each repair company. You would leave a 5 star rating if you were completely satisfied with the service from beginning to end, and you would recommend their service to others. A 1 rating would mean you had a horrible experience with a company and you would never use them again or recommend them to anyone. Please share your experience with other LAreapairfinders.com users and members to make our online community aware of the good and the bad which can save everyone money and a headache. We also have a feedback forum where you can leave up to 250 characters, so you can talk about specifics about the company. Example: “overcharged from original quote”, “late arrival”, “extremely helpful and cost effective”, “and great service! With this rating system we hope you will be able to make a more informative decision on which business you choose for your repair needs.
What if I can’t find a service within the selected category?
We strive to fill each category with quality services. Our list is consistently growing and we may not have the exact service you are looking for. We want to help everyone, so simple call our office and we will find someone for you within 24 hours and add them to our database. Our Business Hours are M-F 9:00 AM – 4:00PM Office phone number: 310.303.0170
Additional Questions?
CALL US @ 310.303.0170
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Doing an oil change
Posted by jfallon on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 (01:51:22) (41 reads)
Change Your Oil (The Real Down and Dirty)
By Scott Memmer
Oil disposal has become a hot issue in the last decade or so. The EPA now levies a huge fine -- into six figures -- for improper or illegal oil disposal. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone. Before doing this procedure, we recommend you find a local quick-lube place that will accept your dirty oil at no charge. Remember, it is illegal to dispose of used motor oil improperly.
Now, if you're still interested in tackling this task yourself, here's a list of tools and things you'll need to perform this procedure:
a 3/8-drive socket set (metric will work for both)
a combination wrench set (closed- and open-ended, metric)
an oil filter wrench
something to catch the old oil -- an oil pan, a used kitchen basin, a kid's pail
a couple of empty one gallon milk containers with screw-on lids.
a funnel and a one quart Ziploc baggie
a lot of old newspapers and several dirty rags
presoiled work clothes and, if you have long hair, a baseball cap
two pair surgical gloves (optional; no, we won't ask you to cough)
a new oil filter (see vehicle's owner's manual for requirements)
enough oil to refill the engine (check back page of owner's manual for grade and number of quarts); we recommend name brands, such as Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil, etc.
STEP ONE: Before you do anything, pick out a flat spot on your driveway. Now take your car for a drive around the neighborhood. We do this to heat the oil and make it nice and thin, so it will drain more completely from the engine block. Drive the vehicle far enough and long enough so that the temperature gauge begins to register. If you don't have a temp gauge, or if you have gauges but they're broken, turn on the heater and drive until your feet get toasty. The engine is now warm. Park it in your pre-chosen spot.
STEP TWO: Turn off the engine, put the car in gear, and set the parking brake firmly. For safety, block the tires with several bricks or large rocks. Go in the house and put on your dirty clothes and cap. Come out and line up your tools.
Now slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. If there isn't enough room to slide under, you may have to jack up the car to get beneath it. Raise the car with a hydraulic pump and settle it on jackstands. CAUTION: Never get under a car held aloft only by a jack. Always use jackstands.
O.K., now locate the drain plug. It should be about the closest thing to the ground, a fairly large nut with a slim washer under it. Sometimes it will even be labeled "drain plug." (Caution: Make sure you're not looking at the transmission drain plug. It's usually a larger nut. If not sure, feel the metal around it. The metal around the engine oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the trans plug. If still not sure, call a friend.) Find your socket set and pull out several sockets that look about the same size as the nut until you find one that fits over it.
STEP THREE: If you have them, put on your surgical gloves to keep your hands clean. Grab the socket wrench and put the correct-sized socket on it. Place it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. It won't budge? Try again -- really put some force into it this time. If it still won't dislodge after several tries, locate the same sized closed-end wrench and use that instead. After you get the nut cracked, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Not too loose, though -- you don't want oil all over the place.
STEP FOUR: Now take the newspaper and spread it under the car. Make sure to cover where the oil filter sticks out, because it drips after removal. Look up into the engine. See the oil filter? It looks like a miniature, upside-down version of the mountain from "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." Get the drain pan (or kitchen basin, or kid's pail) and slide it under the drain plug. Position it so the stream hits it just right (if the plug points to the side and not straight down, the oil will shoot out sideways like from a fire hydrant). Loosen the plug and set it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.
STEP FIVE: Locate the oil filter wrench. Take the socket off the socket wrench and set it next to the drain plug. Slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. You'll probably want to use the short extension, too. The oil filter wrench is like a round dog collar that only chokes in one direction. Set it up to "grab" or "choke" counterclockwise. Slip it over the oil filter and give it a tug. It shouldn't be that tight. When you feel it give, loosen it a little more, then slide the wrench off and do the rest by hand. Careful -- it has hot oil in it! Make sure your face is not under it. Remove it all the way and pour the contents into the drain pan. Set the used oil filter right-side-up on the newspaper.
STEP SIX: Slide out, open the hood (if you haven't already) and remove the oil filler cap. Set it aside. This will help the oil drain a little easier. O.K., take a breather.
Now, here's the deal. If you're in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don't do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.
STEP SEVEN: O.K., you're back. Put your gloves on and get to work. Before you thread the new oil filter in place, dip a finger into the drain pan and coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil, and set it aside. This will help it seat better against the engine block. With a clean rag, wipe off the round metal circle on the engine where the oil filter fits, then thread the new filter onto the post. When it's finger-tight, either tighten it by hand if you're strong enough (it takes about one-half to three-quarters of a turn, no more: read the instructions on the filter), or flip the oil filter wrench over on the socket wrench and tighten it that way.
STEP EIGHT: We recommend using a new sealing washer on the drain plug. Put the washer in place and thread the drain plug back into its hole. Scooch it up tight with the socket set, but not so tight that you can't get it off the next time (remember your struggles earlier; better to have it snug but not stripped.) Now take the oil drain pan and the empty milk bottle and the funnel. If you have a friend, have him hold the bottle while you pour the oil into it. When most of the oil has found the bottom of the bottle, seal it with the lid, then wipe out the inside of the funnel with a clean rag. (We sometimes prop the drain pan against a wall and let it continue to drip into the bottle while we do the next step. You'll need an extra funnel to do this.)
STEP NINE: Set the cleaned funnel into the oil filler hole and pour in as many quarts as the manufacturer recommends. As the oil fills, begin cleaning up. Throw the newspapers in the trash and wipe down all your tools. Discard the empty oil containers in a recycling bin. After the oil is all in, twist the oil cap back on and check the dipstick for oil level, just to make sure. Take the old oil filter, place it in the Ziploc bag, and seal it.
STEP TEN: Start the engine and let it idle for about five minutes, looking for leaks. Place the milk container and the Ziploc bag in a box, and set it somewhere in the car where it can't tip over. Drive to the nearest oil recycling center (as we discussed, most of the national chains, such as Econo Lube N' Tune, Jiffylube, Grease Monkey, etc., will take your old oil and filters). Take a last look underneath for leaks.
That's it. Remember, changing your oil on a regular basis is the single most important thing you can do to extend the life of your car. Refer to your owner's manual for exact time periods.
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10 Carpentry Finishing tips you needs to know
Posted by jfallon on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 (01:41:24) (45 reads)
Summary: These carpentry tips for finish carpentry will save you from mistakes. From glue and tape measure tips through getting straight cuts, avoiding miters and splits to crown molding secrets, your finish carpentry work will progress more smoothly if you catch on to these time and finish carpentry work saving techniques.
Calibrate Your Tape
I'll bet you have dropped your tape measure a time or two. Look at the tip of the blade. See if the little prongs that grab onto the end of a piece of wood are bent. If they are, your tape is going to read wrong when you translate an inside measurement to a length! Take two pliers and carefully straighten the tape prongs.
Pencil Marks
A simple pencil mark can be confusing. Sometimes the line is slightly curved. Where do you cut? Finish marks should be crisp arrow points. The tip of the arrow is the exact mark. Just remember what side of the line to cut on!
Support Your Work
If you are using a miter box saw and cutting long lengths, they will flop around and cause you fits. You may need three of my carpenter's benches, one for the saw and the other two as outriggers to catch the ends of the lumber being cut.
Cut Upside Down
Are you making cross cuts across grain? Trimming down a door or cutting finish plywood? If so, you can reduce splintering if the circular saw blade cuts up through the finish grain. This means cut plywood with the good side facing down. If both sides are good, then make a fine pencil line and use a straightedge and razor knife to score the wood first.
Straight Cross Cuts
Clamp a thin metal straightedge to a piece of plywood or other material to get long straight cuts. The bottom platen of the saw butts up against the straightedge and uses it as a fence. All you need to do is calculate the blade offset so the cut is the right length. Do this on a test piece of lumber. Avoiding Miters
If you are working with tall baseboard, it can be a nightmare to create miter joints. You can eliminate miters by using decorative corner blocks at inside and outside corners. This is a fancy trick for crown molding as well!
Crown Molding Tips
Crown molding fits into a saw differently. Place it upside down in the saw. It sits in the saw at the angle that it rests at on the wall. Cut 16 inch long test pieces that slide into each corner that tell you how out of square each corner actually is. Nail triangular scrap lumber into the wall/ceiling corners. Nail into the wall top plate. These blocks allow you to use shorter nails in the crown and you can nail anywhere you like instead of hunting for ceiling joists.
Glue and Stain
If you are staining woodwork, watch out for excess glue. If you wipe glue off with a wet rag, the glue can get into the wood pores and block stain penetration. Be careful with the glue!
Splits
If using conventional nails, watch out at the ends of pieces of wood. Regular nails are pointed and they can easily cause splits. Either dull the nail tip or pre-drill a small hole to avoid splitting.
Practice First
If you are trying something new, always practice the cut or technique first on some scrap wood. If you are doing miters for the first time start inside a closet, not at the main door of the house. Make mistakes where people will not see them.
By Tim Carter
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Landscaping and dealing with weeds
Posted by jfallon on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 (01:32:48) (60 reads)
The following are the different ways to prevent and eradicate weeds from your lawn:
Fertilizing: Fertilizing and/or applying pre-emergence can be very important in your efforts to control weeds. Results don't come over night, so be patient and understand why it is important! As discussed the section of fertilizing, it is important to know your lawn and when its growing seasons are. By doing so, you can identify (by following a schedule) the best time to stimulate your grass's growth and to fight off weeds. Additionally, many fertilizers can be mixed with, and/or are already mixed with, a pre-emergence and weed-control to help prevent weed growth. By stimulating (with fertilizer) your grass growth just prior to its growing season/s, you can help crowd-out weeds from growing and fighting for space. Conversely, if you fertilize your lawn prior to periods of dormancy, you could actually end up feeding the weeds instead, and create much bigger problems. As you can see, following a fertilizing schedule and knowing the best time to use fertilizer is crucial in preventing weeds!
Mowing: Mowing your lawn regularly and to the proper heights can help prevent weed growth. Mowing your lawn to its higher mowing range (see: how high should I cut my grass) will help crowd out unwanted weeds and prevent sunlight from reaching those weeds, helping to stunt weed growth. Additionally, when weeds are present, it is a good idea to bag your clippings so you can help prevent them from spreading throughout your lawn. This is especially important when the weeds are producing seeds!
Weed Remover
Pulling Weeds: Weeding is often considered a dreaded task, especialy when it comes to pulling weeds from the ground. However, when it comes down to it, it's the quickest and usually the most effective way to do it! Most annual weeds should be pulled by hand, unless they have already grown too far out of control. The important thing to remember when pulling weeds from the ground is to make sure you pull not only the weed, but also its roots. Many deep-rooted weeds can grow up to 6 inches into the soil, and if not removed, those roots can grow back again. Depending on the size and number of weeds, most can be dug-up with weeding tool, potting trowel, or a small shovel. When digging-out the weed, make sure that you remove as much of the root as possible. Remember, the root should be completely removed, even to its root depth. If the roots are 6 inches deep, make sure you dig the roots up from that depth as well. This can be accomplished by loosing the soil around the weed roots and slowly removing the weed back and forth from the soil. If the ground is to hard, try soaking it a little to ease the root removal process. Some people will even use hot-water from a kettle to poor on shallow rooted weeds (like spurge) to help loosen-up the soil or even kill the weeds on the spot!
Herbicides: You can't hardly walk into a lawn and garden store anymore without seeing a multitude of lawn herbicides on the shelves. Most are concentrated in a liquid form and can be sprayed by simply applying to a hose end. Herbicides are becoming more popular in use do to their increasing varieties and ease of use. Some herbicides are now formulated to kill certain weeds while at the same time not harming your grass. Just make sure that the label clearly spells this out before using. Many of the spray herbicides can be applied either to your entire lawn, or in certain spots were weeds are prevalent. Click here for more on how to apply. However, there are some down-sides and instructions to using herbicides that you should consider before use:
Herbicides are toxic and can cause health problems if not properly handled, used, or stored.
Herbicides should not be used on new lawns until they are fully established (usually after four mowings).
Herbicides should not be sprayed on windy days or in windy areas.
If you have children or pets, you will need to check the herbicide container to determine how long they need to stay off of the lawn after applying.
Only those herbicides that will not harm or damage your grass when applied should be used on your lawn. If you use the wrong type, you could end up killing not only the weeds, but also your grass!
Always dispose of used herbicide containers and spray-nozzles after use. Most importantly, follow the instructions on the container label for proper use and safety!
Aerating: Aerating is necessary for lawns that have never been aerated, get lots of foot traffic, and/or are planted in cloy soils. If your lawn is developing weeds like Crabgrass, Chickweed, and Plantain, you may have a highly compacted soil that needs aeration to loosen it up and prevent these weeds from growing. Click here for more on aerating.
Reseeding: If you live in a region (commonly the Southern U.S.) where Warm-Season grasses often go dormant in the winter months, you may want to consider reseeding your lawn with another Cool-Season grass to keep your lawn looking green year-round and crowd out cool-season weeds in your lawn.
About the Author
Dawn West B.A. holds a B.A. in English from Harvard University and teaches writing at Oregon State University.
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Learning about mold
Posted by moldmutts on Monday, February 11, 2008 (23:09:13) (46 reads)
Molds are but one type of fungi that exist in nearly every location across the globe. When damp conditions are present, mold is able to grow on such diverse materials as wood, carpet, insulation, cloth, and all types of food. Mold thrives in damp, moist, or wet surroundings, frequently in areas where humans exist.
The factors that determine the rate of this growth include amount of moisture, type of food or organic material, temperature, and well as many others.
If the mold spores are "toxic", they can adversely affect the health of humans. The effect on humans will depend on the type of mold involved, the metabolic byproduct of the mold, as well as how much contact there is and the length of exposure, as well as the level of susceptibility of the human victim. This last factor is important for children who can be affected much more easily than adults.
The ill effects of molds generally break down into 4 categories that include allergies, infections, irritations, and toxicities.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
1. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
2. There is no practical way to eliminate all molds and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
3. If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
4. Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
5. Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% ) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
6. Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
7. Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
8. Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
9. In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
10. Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
A Mayo Clinic Study attributed nearly all the chronic sinus infections afflicting 37 million Americans to molds.
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Drain Cleaner and Opener Information
Posted by jfallon on Monday, February 11, 2008 (22:34:22) (38 reads)
Drain Cleaner and Opener Information
Clogged Drain Prevention. To avoid clogging drains, use a drain strainer to trap food particles and hair; collect grease in cans rather than pouring it down the drain; pour a kettle of boiling water down the drain weekly to melt fat that may be building up in the drain; or weekly put some vinegar and baking soda down your drain to break down fat and keep your drain smelling fresh.
Plunger. A time-honored drain opener is the plunger. This inexpensive tool will usually break up the clog and allow it to float away. It may take more than a few plunges to unclog the drain. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD AFTER ANY COMMERCIAL DRAIN OPENER HAS BEEN USED OR IS STILL PRESENT IN THE STANDING WATER.
For grease buildup, dissolve 1 lb washing soda in 3 gal boiling water and pour down drain. To avoid burns from boiling water, hold water container close to drain and pour slowly and directly into drain. For heavy grease buildup, use a commercial drain opener. Exercise extreme caution when using and follow label instructions exactly. (Commercial drain openers can also be used to clear hair buildup from bathroom drains.)
Baking Soda and Vinegar. Pour 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain. Add 1/2 cup white vinegar and cover the drain if possible. Let set for a few minutes, then pour a kettle of boiling water down the drain to flush it. The combination of baking soda and vinegar can break down fatty acids into soap and glycerin, allowing the clog to wash down the drain. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD AFTER ANY COMMERCIAL DRAIN OPENER HAS BEEN USED OR IS STILL PRESENT IN THE STANDING WATER.
Salt and Baking Soda. Pour 1/2 cup salt and 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain. Follow with 6 cups boiling water. Let sit overnight and then flush with water. The hot water should help dissolve the clog and the baking soda and salt serve as an abrasive to break through the clog.
Mechanical Snake (and Garden Hose). A flexible metal snake can be purchased or rented. It is threaded down the clogged drain and manually pushes the clog away. If used in conjunction with a running garden hose, it can even clear a blockage in the main drain to the street. First crank the snake and feed it into the pipe. Next withdraw the snake and flush the pipe by inserting a garden hose with the water turned on full. With some luck, it may save you the expense of a plumber.
This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension
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